Indian Attars & Perfumes:
Traditional Attars
The traditional attars of India
are rarely found in their pure
form today. They are often
adulterated with synthetic
chemicals or the base oil,
sandalwood, is stretched with
liquid paraffin and other
substances. In the traditional
process
various flowers, roots, herbs,
spices, etc are hydrodistilled
in copper vessels into a
receiving vessel containing
sandalwood
oil. It means that a certain
proportion of flowers or other
aromatic plants is put into a
copper vessel containing water,
sealed and the aromatic vapors
produced from a wood or cow dung
fire, rises through bamboo pipes
and passes into another
copper vessel containing
sandalwood oil, sitting below
the larger distilling one. There
the vapors condense and after
the
days distillation the water and
oil separate, allowing most of
the aromatic molecules to become
adsorbed into the sandalwood
oil. The water is decanted off
and added back to the distilling
vessel for the next days
distillation. The process, in
the
case of single flowers like
rose, jasmin, kewda, night
queen, kadam, heena, etc is
repeated for a minimum of 15
days until
the sandalwood becomes totally
saturated with the perfume of
that particular flower. The
process for making Hina, Shamama,
Amber, and Saffron Attar is much
more sophisticated and requires
numerous other steps as as many
as 60 natural ingredients go
into thier production which
takes place over a couple of
months.
ATTAR
SANDAL
Santalum album is a parasitic,
evergreen tree growing primarily
in South Central India, in the
dry forests of the Deccan
plateau, which rolls through the
states of Tamil Nadu and
Karnataka. The finest wood and
oil has traditionally come from
Mysore,Karnataka the fabled City
of Sandalwood ,and from Tamil
Nadu. The tree is modestly
sized, unobtrusive, like its
scent,
growing to a height of 60 feet
and with a girth of 5 feet.
Santalum album in India fruits
twice a year- in April-May and
October-November, All sandalwood
trees in India belong to
the government. If the tree sits
on private land, the farmer is
entitled to 75% of its value for
growing and protecting it,
once it is harvested.
Agmark status: All genuine
agricultural exports that meet
certain governmental quality
standards carry the Agmark
stamp. With
Sandalwood, this is supposed to
indicate that it was not poached
but legally harvested and
exported. Sandalwood is a
precious
oil on a par with jasmine and
rose.Chemically, sandalwood looks
like this: ±-santalol min. 50%,
²-santalol min. 19-30%, ± and ²
santalenes appx 2-10%.
There may also be trace amounts
of carboxylic acid, borneol,
santalone, furfurol and
tersantalal, among others. Many
of the
constituents of sandalwood are
just now being identified.Sandalwood is steam or water
distilled from the heartwood and
roots with a mature tree
yielding about 60 kilos of oil.
Aromatherapy accounts for only a
tiny percentage of world
sandalwood use, with the bulk
going into the perfume and
toiletries
industry.
Another interesting use is in
attar making. Sandalwood is an
excellent fixative, and has a
long tradition of being the
cradle for certain delicate
scents which cannot stand on
their own, usually due to
extreme rarity and fragility.
This
translates into costliness.
Traditionally, attars are made
using a deg, one of the
predecessors of the modern
still. A deg is
an ancient but still used
distillation unit which delivers
a superior oil in subtlety,
complexity, and richness, as the
distillation takes place at a
very low temperature and for a
long period of time. A deg
distillation of sandalwood can
take
15 days. To make an attar,
flowers, earth or a combination
of spices are placed in the main
tub, and the receiver is filled
with sandalwood oil, preferably
itself deg distilled. The main
tub is slowly heated and the
aromatic molecules are gently
coaxed over to, received, and
held fast in the sandalwood bed.
One of the most common attars is
rose (Gulab.) Attar of Roses has
been prized for thousands of
years as the ultimately
luxurious and sensual perfume.
Another beautiful attar is that
of Jasmine sambac (Mogra or
Motia,) which is a jasmine
slowly
distilled (by deg,) into
sandalwood oil. As a side note,
this is also done occasionally
without the sandalwood, making
it not
an attar but a Ruh, (i.e. a
distilledjasmine oil,) and this
is very rare and extremely
expensive. Also, there is not
much
stability with this oil and the
notes may change rapidly from
rich floral to very green. Some
other floral attars are Sona
Champa (Michaela champaca,),
Bakul (Mimopsus elengi,)
Marigold (Tagetes minuta,) Kewda
or Kadi (Pandanus odoratissimus,)
Henna (Lawsonia inermis) and
Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera
varieties.) Examples of attars
made from blends of herbs,
flowers,
woods, and spices are Shamama
and Amberi and Al Habib which
are deep, rich, musky, exotic,
oriental, sensual, and
amber-like,
of varying sweetness. Another
interesting and exciting attar
is Mitti, made from the earth of
Central India near the
Perfumer's city of Kanauuj.
Mitti is supposed to evoke the
first rains of the new monsoon
and the rebirth of all life, as
the
year's cycle continues. Within
the gentle yet powerful cradle
of sandalwood, the rich and
hopeful earth notes slowly and
subtly unfold in faithful
reproduction of the season's
first raindrops hitting the
parched earth of Central India.
ATTAR KEWRA
Co-distillation of Sandalwood
with Pandanus
This is one of the rarest flower
attar absolutes of India. . A
scent so appealing its
addictive!!!
We have a manufacturing unit in
Chatarpur,Orissa. The soil and
climate of Orissa is highly
suited for the harvest and
distillation of Kewra. A simple
distilling unit extracts the
delicate essence of the flower.
A large copper cauldron or
'deg' is filled with water and
the fresh flowers placed inside.
A ribbon of clay perhaps 3"
thick is placed around the rim
of
the cauldron and a lid placed on
top of that. A special piece of
metal, curved at both ends, and
called a 'kamani' spring is
then slid under the lib of the
cauldron and over the lid. A
wedge of wood is then driven
between the spring and the lid
forcing it down onto the clay
ribbon and creating a tight seal
between it and the cauldron.
Separately a long necked
receiver
called a 'Bhapka" is filled with
5 kilos of pure sandalwood oil.
Into its mouth a cotton wrapped
bamboo pipe is inserted. The
other end of the bamboo pipe is
inserted into the cauldron's lid
and a tight seal is formed there
using cotton and clay. As
the pipe is affixed to the lid,
the receiver is placed in a
water bath formed from an old
steel drum.
With all parts now in place the
fire is ignited beneath the
copper receiver and the
distillation process commences.
Great
care is exercised in maintaining
the proper heat so that the
floral material suspended in
water does not burn and also the
proper pressure can be
maintained. No mechanical gauges
are afixed to the lid which
means the pressure is regulated
through
long experience of controlling
the heat of the fire. As the
proper pressure is reached the
flowers begin to release their
volatile aromatic chemicals and
pass along with the steam into
the receiver. On the receiver
side an assistant constantly
monitors the heat of that vessel
by feeling its exterior
temperature with his hand. As it
gets warm he changes the water
in
the water bath as it is critical
that it should stay cool so that
condensation occurs. After 4
hours the condensed material
and sandalwood have filled the
receiver and so a new one is
affixed and the process
continues for another 4 hours.
At the end
of that time the process is
stopped for the day and the two
receivers are allowed to cool
overnight before the oil and
water
are separated. Once this occurs
the water that is siphoned off
is added to the cauldron for the
distillation to take place
that day as it contains so
valuable water soluble aromatic
molecules. This process is
repeated for 15 days or until
the oil
has become saturated with the
champa fragrance in the proper
proportion. In a high quality
attar the actual percentage of
kewra essence absorbed in the
sandalwood oil will be about 3%.
ATTAR GULAB
Co-distillation of Sandalwood
with Rose
The most expensive attar is Rooh
gulab said to have been
discovered by Noorjehan, wife of
Emperor Jehangir of the Mughal
era.
The story goes that she went for
a morning bath and was delighted
with the fragrance of the oily
layer on the water which had
been left overnight to keep it
cool. When distilled, it turned
out to be her favourite rose
perfume. Old texts mention that
the floral group primarily used
for attar manufacture was rose,
bela, jasmine, champa, molesari
and tuberose along with roots
like vetiver and ginger. Sandal,
cinnamon and aloe bark were also
used. Heavy odours like musk,
myrrh and ambergris, were
also used with khus. Sandalwood
oil forms the base as, during
distillation, the original smell
of sandalwood vanishes and the
oil captures the fragrance of
the flower.
We have a manufacturing unit in
Barwana, in the heart of India's
Rose district esp to extract
this exquisite fragrance.
ATTAR CHAMPA
Co-distillation of Sandalwood
with Champaca
Champa Attar Production We have
a manufacturing unit in
Chatarpur,Orissa. The soil and
climate of Orissa is highly
suited
for the harvest and distillation
of Champa. Growing under natural
conditions, the trees reach an
enormous size. The flowers
are plucked from the trees. . A
simple distilling unit extracts
the delicate essence of the
flower. A large copper
cauldron or 'deg' is filled with
water and the fresh flowers
placed inside. A ribbon of clay
perhaps 3" thick is placed
around the rim of the cauldron
and a lid placed on top of that.
A special piece of metal, curved
at both ends, and called a
'kamani' spring is then slid
under the lib of the cauldron
and over the lid. A wedge of
wood is then driven between the
spring and the lid forcing it
down onto the clay ribbon and
creating a tight seal between it
and the cauldron. Separately a
long necked receiver called a 'Bhapka"
is filled with 4 kilos of pure
sandalwood oil. Into its mouth a
cotton wrapped bamboo
pipe is inserted. The other end
of the bamboo pipe is inserted
into the cauldron's lid and a
tight seal is formed there using
cotton and clay. As the pipe is
affixed to the lid, the receiver
is placed in a water bath formed
from an old steel drum.
With all parts now in place the
fire is ignited beneath the
copper receiver and the
distillation process commences.
Great
care is exercised in maintaining
the proper heat so that the
floral material suspended in
water does not burn and also the
proper pressure can be
maintained. No mechanical gauges
are afixed to the lid which
means the pressure is regulated
through
long experience of controlling
the heat of the fire. As the
proper pressure is reached the
flowers begin to release their
volatile aromatic chemicals and
pass along with the steam into
the receiver. On the receiver
side an assistant constantly
monitors the heat of that vessel
by feeling its exterior
temperature with his hand. As it
gets warm he changes the water
in
the water bath as it is critical
that it should stay cool so that
condensation occurs. After 4
hours the condensed material
and sandalwood have filled the
receiver and so a new one is
affixed and the process
continues for another 4 hours.
At the end
of that time the process is
stopped for the day and the two
receivers are allowed to cool
overnight before the oil and
water
are separated. Once this occurs
the water that is siphoned off
is added to the cauldron for the
distillation to take place
that day as it contains so
valuable water soluble aromatic
molecules. This process is
repeated for 15 days or until
the oil
has become saturated with the
champa fragrance in the proper
proportion. In a high quality
attar the actual percentage of
champa essence absorbed in the
sandalwood oil will be about 5%.
ATTAR MOTIA
Co-distillation of Sandalwood
with Jasmin sambac
ATTAR SHAMAMA
Co-distillation of Sandalwood
with Saffron, Agarwood and at
least 10 other herbs, spices.
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